“She wore a lot of those long, slender column dresses in our period, and so I riffed on the idea of a couple of them and combined them together,” Durran explained. The dress is a Durran original (and she knows her way around green dresses). One of the first outfits in that set is this green silk dress, which she wears with a constricting necklace of giant pearls she imagines tearing off and scattering into her soup. Once Diana arrives at the castle, the royals assign her a whole scheduled wardrobe for the weekend’s festivities, which she is expected to follow beat by beat. “But luckily, I wasn’t in that stage yet, so I just didn’t take that in.” Later in her life, Diana reportedly told one designer that she stopped wearing things with the CC logo because the letters reminded her of Charles and Camilla. You can see the Chanel logo on Diana’s sunglasses, which were provided by Chanel and then sized down by the brand to fit Stewart’s face. “Maybe in a few years you’ll be able to find it again because this ’80s revival will be around.” “It was quite difficult to source the fabric, actually, because it was difficult to find a plaid on that scale, since we haven’t had that ’80s check in a while,” Durran said. The outfit was handmade for the film, with the cream blouse based around a style that Diana wore in 1988 and the jacket meant to evoke the larger-print plaids that Diana often sported in the period. Stewart first appears in the film driving to Sandringham alone - a rebellion against the royal family - wearing a thick plaid jacket over a white turtleneck, with a black skirt and Chanel sunglasses. With those basic goals in mind, Durran walked us through how she then developed nine of Spencer’s most Diana-esque costumes. There was no number of things we had to use, or any restrictions on anything.” The idea was that they would supply whatever we wanted for the movie within their power. “When you make an arrangement with them, the costumes arrive and they fit and they’re beautiful, so I was happy to make the connection with them. “They are great at delivering,” Durran said. Chanel came onboard because Kristen Stewart is an ambassador for the brand - but, as Durran explained, she has also worked with the brand in the past and just found it to be a reliable partner. Diana did wear the brand fairly often, especially in the period a little after when Spencer is set, but there are also practical reasons for why you see so much of it. A third of the costumes are re-creations from the brand’s archives. Then, also, the film’s version of Diana happens to wear a lot of Chanel. It’s great to do costumes that have that freedom.” “But given that our movie isn’t one of exact replication, it’s a work of art you’ve got leeway to interpret in different ways. “I’m sure that doing The Crown, for instance, is good fun because you’re trying to find the exact details and replicate,” she said. Since the film is set in the early 1990s, she looked through images of Diana from about 1988 to 1992 to get a sense of her overall style at the time and identify what she wore repeatedly in that era - plaid and gold double-breasted buttons, for example. “It was about creating an aura of her and not being specific.”ĭurran, who has won two Oscars for the costumes she created for Little Women and Anna Karenina, set some basic factual grounding for Spencer as she started designing the costumes for the film. “We would weave in and out of accuracy, sometimes within the same costume,” Durran said, in terms of how closely the costumes resembled something Diana herself wore. Aside from a brief fantasy moment when we see Diana in her wedding dress, the film’s costumes are all meant to evoke Diana’s style without acting as one-to-one re-creations of any specific outfit. That’s the challenge that Jacqueline Durran faced in dressing Kristen Stewart in Spencer, a movie that operates as a fantasia on the themes of Diana’s life, imagining her on a Christmas visit to Sandringham while she and Charles are estranged but not yet divorced. So when you’re making a movie about Diana, you’d better get the costumes right, even if you’re working within a largely invented set of circumstances. She was a fashion icon, so thoroughly photographed you can put any day of the year into Google and find her dressed in something specific. When you think of Princess Diana, it’s easy to imagine her in one of her hundreds of distinctive outfits: her wedding dress, her “revenge dress,” the carefully chosen outfits she wore on her official duties, and the clothes she wore while paparazzied in her time off.
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